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3/2024 Australia Road Trip

We picked up a car in Adelaide and started our road trip along the Great Ocean Road, Geelong, Phillip Island, Lakes Entrance, Canberra, and, finally, Sydney in time for Easter.

The first day from Adelaide, we drove through lots of vineyards to Naracoortes. After we checked in at the hotel, the low tire pressure indicator went off on the car. Our left rear was low but we found an automatic air compressor at the gas station. It beeps when the tire reaches the set pressure.
Naracoortes is VERY small. We stopped at Foodland to pick up potato chips. The checkout lady wanted to know where we’re from. When we said “U.S.”, she said, “What are you doing here?” (Reason: there is a National Park nearby with caves.)
The next morning, we left the motel to go to McDonalds (Makkas) for breakfast; the low pressure indicator was back on. Avis has an office, allegedly, in Naracoortes so we found it – Cappas Auto Repair. Hayden was super nice but he couldn’t do anything even when he called Avis. Avis told Mark to fix it at our expense. Hayden found out that Avis has a tire repair place in town so he sent us to “Trident” tire which turned out to be Bridgestone. They were super nice, found a very long nail and fixed the tyre. Said they’d just bill Avis. Thank heavens for such nice people!

The wind howled when we walked down to the grotto.
Meat pies at the bakery are always good for lunch.

We followed the Great Ocean Road from Warnambool to Apollo Bay to Lorne to Geelong. Little Creature is Mark’s favorite Australian beer and they just happen to be located in Geelong. Made a perfect overnight stop along the way.

The next day we took the ferry to Phillip Island for a penguin visit and a Wild Animal park visit. They’ve both been updated a bit in 30 years.

Our attempt at a selfie in Sydney
Big Merino in Goulburn

Australia has a “thing” about big things – pineapple, sheep, potatoes, avocados. We stopped in Goulburn, NSW, for a toilet, coke at Subway at the Big Merino.  Very busy town and stop!  Not much traffic until we got to within 50 km of Sydney airport. The tunnel into Sydney drops you right at the airport without a gas station in sight and Google wasn’t much help! We drove to the Avis return and asked “Where’s a petrol station?”. He directed us to a 7-11 outside of the airport.  Google Maps finally got us there via Wickham St.  The very busy station is at the point of 2 streets and seems to have a monopoly on rental car fill-ups! 

We made it to Sydney in time for Easter Weekend which is a long weekend in Australia. Good Friday is a national holiday. Mark and Gayle and friends put together what is called “long lunch” on Good Friday with lamb and wine and other assorted food. They invited us for what turned out to be a VERY LONG Lunch.  We arrived about 12:30 and left at about 8:30 PM. Excellent wine and a few experimental gin smashes.

Easter dinner was at Din Tai Fung

We needed something to do on Saturday; microbreweries called our name. We took the Fast Ferry to Manly to 4 Pines.  Beer but no t-shirts. They told us their other brewery in Brookvale has shirts.  We found the bus to Brookvale and visited 3 breweries all in the area – 7th Day, 4 Pines (no shirts there, either) and Buckettes.  Tasted their beer, chatted with a few people, ate pizza at 7th Day before we took the bus back to the Manly Ferry which was packed but we made it on the 2nd ferry.  All the beach people were going home.

View of Twelve Apostles along the Great Ocean Road

In case you’re wondering, we mainly stayed in small motels along the way. They are relatively inexpensive and 100% of them have a kettle, tea bags and a pint of milk because, if you’re Australian, you are sure to want a cup of tea at the end of the day. Many had a microwave and small fridge along with dishes, glasses, cups, saucers for proper tea.

Koalas and friends

Port Macquarie was one stop we made after a few days in Sydney.  Where is Port Macquarie, you ask?  It’s about a 4-hour drive north of Sydney or a one hour flight on a prop plane.  We opted for the prop plane and were met at the airport for the whole reason we added the city to our itinerary – Amy!

Amy was matched up with us through CSU’s International Friends program way back in 2001 when she spent a semester at CSU as an exchange student.  We showed her Rocky Mountain National Park and took her to packed sports bar for the first round of March Madness!  Now it was her turn to show us koalas and the beach and introduce us to her partner, Jacques, and her son, Levi.

Levi and Amy

Amy and Levi took good care of us!

Even though we hadn’t seen her since 2001, it seemed as if it were just yesterday and we caught up with all her adventures and life.  We had a great time!  I should mention that Amy introduced us a bit of Australian trash TV – “Married at First Sight” or MAFS.  They record the show (They can skip the commercials.  and after watching 5 episodes, we were hooked and watched it until the end to see what happened! It was good to learn that Americans aren’t the only people who will do anything to be on TV.

Port Macquarie beach

One of the city beaches in Port Macquarie. Amy took us for coffee along the beach.

A good time to visit is in the afternoon when the volunteers hand feed the patients.

Koala visiting a tree near the hospital.

This koala likes to visit a tree near the hospital. He’s not a patient!

Koala Sleeping leaning on a branch.

This guy was having a nice nap.

Koala sleeping in a tree

This little guy was at the Koala Hospital in Port Macquarie. Injured or sick koalas are treated here until they can be released. Some stay forever due to their injuries – blind, amputated limbs

North Haven Beach

North Haven Beach – a short little drive south of Port Macquarie. The beach was empty the afternoon we checked it out.

Snake warning sign

Snake signs seem to be everywhere we turned in Australia.

After our visit with Amy, we headed across town for a 2 day visit with Sonya and Graham and Hollie, the cocker spaniel.  We met Graham and Sonya in Split, Croatia, and when they found out we actually had Port Mac on the agenda, we got a lovely invite to spend a few days with them.  Sonya and Graham took us to do some wine tasting and beer tasting and introduced us to a delicious Australian sparkling wine.  Hollie, the cocker spaniel, was a good hostess, too.  She was more than willing to let us pet her as long as we wanted!

We wanted to fix everyone Mexican dinner while we visited.  Our first plan was chicken enchilada casserole with green enchilada sauce.  We moved to Plan B when we couldn’t find any green enchilada (or red!) sauce.  The Plan B fajitas were a success!

Burge Sparkling wine

Burge Sparkling wine – yummy! Thanks, Sonya, for introducing us.

hollie Graham Mark Sonya

Hollie, Graham, Hollie and Sonya – friends in Port Macquarie

Margaret River visit

We rented a car for our expedition to Margaret River from Fremantle.  Mark drove and it didn’t take him long to remember that the turn signal is on the right side of the column!  He only turned on the windshield wipers once or twice.  BTW … European cars don’t reverse the controls on the columns in Australia but Japanese cars do.

Stopped at Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and then drove the back roads to Margaret River past all the wineries.

Cape Naturaliste LIghthouse

Cape Naturaliste LIghthouse – Cape Naturaliste is the northernmost point of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge and separates Geographe Bay from the southern Indian Ocean.

snake sign

These snake signs were at both lighthouses we visited.

In Margaret River we needed to do the laundry and went off to find the laundromat. When we realized we needed the correct change for the washer and dryer, Mark asked at a bank if she would give us 10 $1 coins. “Are you a customer?” Mark said “No.” and she replied that she could only give change to customers. Really??? Mark left without comment and went to Liquorland next door where the lovely clerk, Mel, gave him change and told us where to find some good beer – Settlers Tavern up the street.

We booked a wine and food tour with Harvest Tours because no one wanted to be responsible for driving after wine tasting.  The tour was fun … coffee tasting, wine tasting, lunch and wine tasting at Brookland Valley Winery, chocolate tasting, cheese, olive oil, soap (no tasting), and finished off with a Brewery stop at BeerFarm.

House of Cards Winery

House of Cards Winery

McHenry Hohnen Winery -

McHenry Hohnen Winery – first stop on the wine tour. We tasted about 7 different wines here.

The BeerFarm is a brewery in an old barn with a milking shed. They built a water slide into a lake but after an adult broke his arm, the council forbid adults and only allow children on the water slide – Don’t ask!

Before driving back to Perth the next day, we headed south to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse – the southwestern most point in Australia where the Southern Ocean and Indian Ocean meet.  It’s a good whale watching spot but not in March.

Cape Leeuwin lighthouse

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse at the southwest most point of Australia.

The Indian Ocean and the Southern Ocean collide at this point.

Mark Susan Cape Leeuwin

We can prove we went to Cape Leeuwin.  The wind was howling when we visited here.

We wandered our way through the NP and ended up at Surfer’s Point, another great viewing spot.

Surfers Point surfers

The surfers were out in droves enjoying the big waves.

Surfers Point, Western Australia

tall trees

The trees in the National Park were tall. Do not ask me what kind of trees they are!

The Indian Pacific across Australia

We each had one item on the RTW trip from our wish list. Mark wanted to trek with the gorillas – check!  Susan’s wish list item was a bit tamer – ride the Indian Pacific train across all of Australia.  We took it from Perth to Sydney – from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean for 4352 km or 2704 miles.  This trip takes about 4 days and we had the fun of sleeping on the train for 3 nights.

luggage to be stored

The compartments are small so all these bags went to a luggage car not to be seen for 4 days!

 

toilet and shower on the train

The toilet and shower compartment were very functional! Each compartment for 2 people has a little toilet room with a shower. The shower worked better than a few we encountered in hotels in India.

Train Compartment

The beds are stored during the day.

backpacks stored

We had our backpacks and one small cloth bag for our clothes. We had to buy the cloth bag in Bangkok!

Dave on train engine

Dave couldn’t wangle a visit to the engine compartment so he settled for climbing on the engine while we made a stop in Cook.

When Dave Young from Fort Collins heard about the train, he invited himself along since he’s a HUGE train buff and this one is on his bucket list.

The Indian Pacific left at 10 AM Sunday morning from Perth and climbed out of the suburbs into the hills.  The ticket prices include food, unlimited drinks including wine, champagne, beer, gin and tonic, coffee, soft drinks and tours at each stop.

The tour part is important because our first stop along the way was at 10 PM Sunday night in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia.  The tour took 2 hours on the bus and showed us where the houses of prostitution were and where the huge gold mine is.  It’s a pit mine, about 1.5 kilometers deep and is worked 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  We want to come back in the daytime for a real mine tour.

Kalgorlie mine

The Kalgorlie mine is a gold mine operating 24 hours a day 7 days a week.

Then it was back on the train for our first night of sleep in the little bunks. Mark got the top one!  Sleep was OK although at 3 AM, the tracks got a little rough!  Mark’s bunk had a rail he could put up just in case he might want to roll out.

SUsan and ladder into the top bunk

Mark got to use the ladder to crawl into the top bunk.

Day started with breakfast in Rawhinna about 6 AM outside on tables.  Rawhinna is on the edge of the Nullarbor Plain and is the start of 478 kilometres (297 miles) of perfectly straight rail – the longest in the world .  On Day 2 we stopped at Cook for a resupply of water for the train.  Cook is pretty much a ghost town after the Australian government privatized the rail.  The only things there are an airstrip for emergency commercial flight landings in the middle of the country (Never used), fuel and water for trains, and overnight accommodations for freight and passenger train crews.

Cook explanation sign

This explains exactly where Cook is in Australia – 1523 km to one coast and 1984 km. to the other coast.

nullarbor plain green

A tropical storm had just crossed Australia and the Nullarbor Plain was very green.

rawlinna train length

The train stretched fro about one mile.

Day 3 started with Adelaide at 7:30, Mark took the tour of the Adelaide Oval – cricket and Aussie Rules and Rugby – while Susan took a bus tour of the city. Dave left us here for 5 days in Adelaide before he flew home.

Adelaide Oval

Adelaide Oval. Mark didn’t get to go on the pitch since they were getting it ready for a cricket match

The train stopped in Broken Hill in the afternoon.  We saw the Main Drag show in the hotel that was used in “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert”.

Broken Hill Susan

Proof we made it to Broken Hill

 Broken Hill drag show

One drag queen from the show in Broken Hill

On Day 4, the train wandered its way through the Blue Mountains and suburbs of Sydney before arriving about noon at Sydney Central Station.

Blue Moutains

By the time we reached the Blue Mountains, we’d entered a completely new climate area. Lots of trees and from here the train wanders into Sydney.

In between stops, we used our cabin for reading or naps or we wandered up to the Lounge Car and had a glass (or 2 or 3) of wine while we talked with other passengers.  We met Gayle and Mark from Sydney and even got invited to their house for dinner.  Another US couple we met, and there were not many of us, were from California and they’d been on a diving trip for about 2 months.  We had drinks with them in Sydney.

Overall, the trip was fun. There are miles and kilometers of nothing in the middle of Australia.  This trip drives home the point that Australia is about the size of the US but only has about 30 million people!  Lots of it are pretty uninhabitable in the middle of the desert.

The next train trip to do in Australia is the Ghan that goes from Darwin south through Alice Springs into Adelaide.  This train has been completely updated and we heard is quite posh.

May 2017 Planning Update

Thank heavens for Excel spreadsheets!  I use them to keep track of where we’ll be every day, where we’re staying, flights, trains, etc.  Another spreadsheet is tracking costs and what we have left to book. I even have a worksheet to calculate how many days we need to take anti-malaria meds.

The spreadsheet is getting longer and details are added by the week.  We have most of the long haul flights organized and have organized a tour in Jordan for 8 days – seeing Jerash and Petra, the Red Sea and the Dead Sea.

The latest detail is setting up a tour in India.  We’ve decided to use Audley Travel with a driver and tour guides in each city.  We’ve been working with Byrn Woodworth at Audley Travel   and she’s been great, so far.  She gave us “homework” to do – check out hotels, make a list of cities we want to see and what we want to see in each city.  Bryn took that information and came up with an itinerary along with 3 or 4 hotels in each city for us to consider.  The tour includes driver between cities and private guides in each city along with admissions and hotels with breakfasts.  Dinners and lunches are on our own.  After some more research on our part, we’ve made that reservation!

Now it’s time to start filling in the blanks – trains, a few hotels, short flights.

Today was pretty frustrating when I tried to book 2 seats on the Indian Pacific train from Perth to Sydney on the Great Southern Railways website  www.greatsouthernrail.com.au .  I made it through the booking process but when I clicked on “Payment”, the website just sat and stared at me for 5 minutes (Yes, I timed it.) with the little message “Payment Processing”.  Finally, I checked my credit card website and, sure enough, they’d approved the transaction.  No booking number appeared, no email showed up with a booking number and I couldn’t log on to an account, even though I’d attempted to set one up.  I couldn’t even get Great Southern to reset my password.  Their site SAID they were sending me an email so I could set a new PW but that email never showed up.

I sent Great Southern Sales and Booking an email. The autoreply announced they are experiencing a greater than expected number of emails and to just hang on and wait for a reply. Wonder why??  Now, I’m sitting on hold with Great Southern trying to get this figured out.  Thanks heavens for Skype!

5/22/Update – Great Southern was really helpful after I got through the hold – a mere 15 minutes.  The booking is done – yeah! Now we have to figure out the rest of the time in Australia!